Visit Kanazawa, where ancient Japan meets the modern art

Go through Kanazawa Castle Park and cross the causeway bridge leading to the Oyama Shrine, also linked to the Maeda clan and in particular to Maeda Toshiie, the first lord of this rich and powerful clan, and his wife Maeda Matsu, also a key figure in the growth of the Maeda clan. The peculiarity of the Oyama Jinja is its unusual western-style portal: it was in fact designed by a German architect and originally marked the entrance to Kanzawa Castle, but was later moved to the entrance of the Oyama Jinja

A short walk from the Omiya shrine and you reach the Nagamachi district, the old Samurai quarter where many samurai residences of different ranks can still be found. Many residences have been renovated and are still inhabited today, in many cases by direct descendants of the original families. Paved streets, rammed-earth walls, wooden houses and small canals line the street… and in an instant, you are far from the modernity of nearby Katamachi, the central shopping and nightlife street just a few steps away.

 

Some old dwellings are open to the public, such as the elegant Nomura Residence (500 JPY), with its lovely inner garden that once belonged to a higher-level samurai, or the dwellings of the ashigaru (the lower-level samurai, who did not have a horse) with free admission.

 

 

The whole district retains a unique atmosphere and there are several small shops selling handicrafts and traditional sweets, and it is an absolute pleasure to stroll calmly through the narrow streets of Nagamachi!

 

 

To continue travelling through time, the walk continues through the streets of the geisha districts, past two-story wooden houses, cobbled streets and rice paper walls glimpsed inside the buildings. Although the place par excellence associated with Geisha is the traditional Gion district in Kyoto, Geisha existed, and still exist even if in smaller numbers, in other cities, such as Tokyo or Kanazawa, where there are no less than three districts where these Japanese artists live and work.

 

Nowadays, in addition to the classical events and receptions in the Chaya -the traditional teahouses where guests are entertained by the performances of the geisha- the geoshas take part in some city events and celebrations, and it is also possible to attend some of their performances dedicated to the general public. You can find the calendar on the Kanazawa Tourist Board website.

 

The most famous, most visited and also largest district is Higashi-Chaya, with two Chaya open to the public for visiting. In many other buildings there are delightful cafés and sophisticated souvenir shops, mainly made of gold leaf, a product for which Kanazawa is renowned. In this regard, I would like to point out Hazuka Gold Leaf Store, which has two locations: the more modern one has a gold bath, while in the traditional location you can admire the traditional warehouse with the wall entirely covered in gold leaf!

 

Crossing the river, you arrive instead at the Kazue-machi district, a precious little treasure chest where it is not rare to hear the sound of a koto or a shamisen that some maiko is practising to play. This district is the smallest and since there are no buildings accessible to the public, it is generally ignored by most tourists, but personally it is the one I preferred, precisely because of the cosy and real atmosphere.

 

Finally, Nishi-Chaya, further away and in the western part of the city, is basically a street overlooked by some tea houses and where there is a small museum on the history of the area. Personally, it is the one that fascinated me the least and if you don’t have enough time, you can skip it.

 

A stone’s throw from the Geisha district of Nishi-Chaya is Kanazawa’s Teramachi, or ‘city of temples’, where there are over 70 temples, mainly lined up along the main street. The most famous temple is definitely the Myoryuji Temple, also called the Ninja Temple, although it has nothing to do with ninjas! The nickname comes from the special features built inside the building such as secret tunnels, hidden passages and hidden rooms. In fact, the temple was actually a kind of military outpost, which had above all a defensive function and provided a warning inside the castle in the event of an enemy attack and at the same time could be turned into an escape route.

 

Myoryuji Temple can only be visited by pre-booking (call in advance or register on the spot for the first tour with availability) and the tour is in Japanese, but a booklet with an English translation is provided.

 

Hours: 09:00-16:00 (to book call 076-241-0888)

Price: 1,000 JPY

 

But Kanazawa is not only past and tradition, it is also a modern city and a must-see destination for lovers of architecture and modern art. So much so that the first impact with the city, on arrival at Kanazawa station, is with the imposing Tsuzumimon Gate, the great portal inspired by the tsuzumi drum, which merges with the Motenashi Dome behind it, recalling a samurai’s helmet, in a perfect architectural fusion of tradition and modernity.

 

Another noteworthy site is the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, a complex consisting of a building that often hosts exhibitions and shows and the surrounding park, dotted with numerous art installations. A space to experience art from all directions, without a precise explanation, following the stimuli that come to us as we walk among the installations, a bit like what happens at the Hakone Open Air Museum.

 

Access to most of the installations at the 21st Century Contemporary Art Museum in Kanazawa is free of charge, but for temporary exhibitions and access to the ‘submerged’ part of Leandro Erlich’s famous pool an entrance fee is required.

 

After having driven you so many kilometres and filled your eyes with its beauty, Kanazawa could not fail to think about how to satisfy your stomach too! Kanazawa, located by the sea at the gateway to the Noto Peninsula, is one of the best places in Japan to enjoy delicious fresh fish. Definitely, the best place is the Omicho Market, a huge covered market where locals go every day to buy fresh fish and vegetables. The market is open every day except Sundays, generally between 9.30 am and 5 pm, and besides the stalls where you can buy fresh fish or taste fish snacks and oysters, there are also many small sushi restaurants, both near the various entrances and upstairs. Lunch here is definitely one of the things to do in Kanazawa!

 

And speaking of food, Kanazawa’s cold winters have made it one of the best places to enjoy a hot oden! This sort of soup with various elements in it is a simple but very tasty dish that is said to warm the body and soul. You won’t struggle to find oden on the menu at the little eateries and izakaya drinking alleys in the Katamachi area….

 

There are plenty of things to see and do in Kanazawa. I generally recommend devoting a couple of days to the city, including a half-day visit to Shirakawago, the Unesco heritage village with its typical houses with sloping thatched roofs resembling the shape of two hands joined in prayer. It can be easily reached by bus in an hour and a half or you can opt for a tour with a private driver.

 

Kanazawa is also the perfect gate to explore the Noto Peninsula, where I recommend you to visit Wajima, the town famous for being the birthplace of Go Nagai and for the production of Wajima Laqueware.

Compared to other Japanese cities, I found the choice of accommodation in Kanazawa a little more limited and not always good value for money. I have stayed in Kanazawa twice: the first time, during my second trip to Japan, I had decided to try the minshuku experience (a sort of homely version of ryokan) and had opted for the Minshuku Ginmatsu, with traditional dinner and breakfast included. The inn is near Higashi-Chaya and is very simple but in perfect Japanese style, with tatami floors, futons to sleep on and a couple of lovely owners who also speak English.

 

The second time instead, arriving late in the evening and planning to stay two evenings, we opted for the Amanek hotel, in the Katamachi area where there are several izakaya to spend the evening. A little further from the station, but within a few minutes’ walk you can reach both the Samurai district and Kenrokuen Garden. It also offers a hearty Japanese-style breakfast, served in beautiful saucers typical of Kanazawa handicrafts, and the rooms are more spacious than the average Japanese, with a really nice modern bathroom. For those travelling by plane, it is also convenient for taking the limousine bus to Komatsu airport. 

 

Other hotels that I recommend and that some travellers who asked me to create their personalised travel itinerary have tried are the Tokyu Stay Kanazawa, in the same area as the Amanek and a decent alternative should the latter be unavailable, and the Soki Kanazawa an excellent hotel near the Omicho market, from where it is easy to reach both the city and other points of interest.

Kanazawa is very well connected to the rest of Japan both by train and by air, so much so that the second time I went there I took a flight from Haneda airport to Komatsu airport, at a lower cost than the Shinkansen from Tokyo…this could be an interesting option to consider also in view of the little convenience that the Japan Rail Pass will have from October 2023 due to the price increase…

 

Kanazawa is very well connected via fast train to Kyoto and Osaka, as well as via Shinkansen to Tokyo, including via Nagano where you might decide to stop and visit Shibu Onsen and the Snow Monkey Park.

 

In short, Kanazawa is in an excellent location, it is full of interesting things to do and see and it is my favourite city in Japan…I would say that it has all the credentials to be absolutely included in your itinerary in Japan!