Itinerario in Hokkaido

Mini-itinerary in Hokkaido in Winter

This year, my company truly outdid itself by organizing the bonenkai, the year-end party, in Hokkaido, specifically in Sapporo!
Three days of company closure, with flights and hotels covered, plus the option to extend the stay over the weekend (flights included, but hotel at your own expense). Naturally, I took full advantage of this opportunity and got the chance to spend five days in Hokkaido, the vast northern island of Japan known for its breathtaking nature, delicious food (especially the incredibly fresh seafood), and its history as the homeland of the Ainu, the indigenous people who were long discriminated against by the Japanese.

Hokkaido is unique—a “Japan that isn’t Japan.” Its history differs from Honshu, Kyushu, and Shikoku, where emperors and samurai shaped the culture. Much like Okinawa, it has its own history and population, which has only recently been recognized, with cultural centers now working to preserve and restore its traditions.

Its stunning natural beauty features unique flora and fauna. During the summer green season, the island offers breathtaking landscapes, while in winter, a blanket of soft snow and ice dominates the scenery.
Hokkaido is the perfect destination for those looking to visit Japan in the summer without enduring the oppressive heat of the Golden Route between Tokyo and Kyoto. It’s also unaffected by the rainy season or typhoons. In winter, it becomes a paradise, particularly for lovers of cold weather and winter sports.

But even for non-skiers like me, Hokkaido in winter turned out to be an excellent choice!
The snow undoubtedly adds a magical touch, but winter is also the best time to savor snow crab, the famous Hokkaido delicacy, as well as other fresh seafood like scallops and salmon roe. During my five days in Hokkaido, I combined a visit to Sapporo with a trip to Noboribetsu Onsen, a renowned hot spring town where you can soak in warm thermal waters while surrounded by snow. Without a doubt, I highly recommend visiting Hokkaido in winter!

5 Days in Hokkaido: My Itinerary in Sapporo and Noboribetsu

The fastest way to get to Hokkaido is by domestic flight, with numerous options available on both regular and low-cost airlines. Using Skyscanner, you can find the best choices in terms of timing and price. I flew from Tokyo to New Chitose Airport, the main gateway near Sapporo, which also provides access to the more “famous” southern part of Hokkaido. Sapporo also has several international flights, so you could even start or end your Japan trip here.

The flight from Tokyo takes about two hours, and the JR Rapid Airport train connects you to Sapporo Station in just 40 minutes for under €10. Note that some cars have reserved seating, which you can book for an additional ¥600. I recommend this option if you’re traveling with bulky luggage, as it provides more space and avoids inconveniencing other passengers.

Hokkaido itinerary - Otaru

Sapporo for 3 days and a Day Trip to Otaru

I spent the first three days in Sapporo, the largest city in Hokkaido, which also serves as a convenient base for a half-day trip to the port town of Otaru. Sapporo isn’t a city overflowing with must-see attractions, but it’s an enjoyable place to experience and, above all, to savor. The food, particularly the fresh seafood, is exquisite. Even in winter, strolling through downtown Sapporo is pleasant and easy, thanks to underground walkways filled with shops. I’ll soon publish a detailed article on what to see and do in Sapporo and its surroundings.

For Otaru, half a day is enough. This charming port town is centered around its canal and features shops selling music boxes and glassware—two crafts heavily influenced by Western styles, much like the city’s architecture. Sadly, I was caught in a snowstorm upon arrival and had very little time to explore. Still, the town struck me as adorable!

Itinerario in Hokkaido - Sapporo

Lake Toya and Noboribetsu Onsen

I then headed east to visit Lake Toya, part of Shikotsu-Toya National Park, renowned for its crystal-clear waters. I even went on a kayak tour with a transparent-bottom kayak before arriving at the famous hot spring town of Noboribetsu Onsen. Here, you’ll find Jigokudani (“Hell Valley”), with its lunar-like landscape, and one of Japan’s most beautiful onsens, which I’ll write about in more detail soon.

Read Also: Guide to Japanese Hotsprings

Before returning to New Chitose Airport, we visited the Upopoy Museum, dedicated to the Ainu people, Hokkaido’s indigenous population. The museum is well-designed, offering performances and free activities to learn more about this local culture. However, I was disappointed to see that the souvenirs sold weren’t authentic Ainu crafts but more like generic merchandise with traditional patterns.

For these two days, we rented a car, mainly to easily reach Lake Toya and comfortably carry our luggage. However, Noboribetsu Onsen and the Upopoy Museum are easily accessible via the JR line, which also connects to the airport and Sapporo.

If you have some more days, you might consider to reach Hakodate and from there head back to airport using the same train line or continue to the main Island of Japan via Shinkansen.

Itinerario in Hokkaido - Noboribetsu Onsen

Driving in Hokkaido in Winter – Tips and Insights

For the final two days, we rented a car, as did some of my colleagues for day trips from Sapporo. We were initially apprehensive about driving on Hokkaido’s snowy roads, but with proper precautions, it turned out fine. Cars come equipped with winter tires and automatic transmissions set to snow mode.

The main challenge is during twilight, especially after sunny days when melting snow turns to ice. Keeping a moderate speed and maintaining a safe distance are essential. We stuck to well-maintained roads early in the winter season when snow levels are still manageable. However, conditions can be trickier in more rural areas or later in winter (January/February). If you’re inexperienced with snowy roads, I don’t recommend renting a car in Hokkaido in winter.

Itinerario in Hokkaido - Lake Toya

Weather and Recommended Clothing

The weather in Sapporo is incredibly unpredictable, as even the hotel staff confirmed! Ignore the forecasts—they might predict snow all day, only for the sun to emerge after half an hour of heavy snowfall. Or they might promise sunshine, but you’ll end up under constant gray skies… And then there’s the wind—often present and freezing, making the actual temperature feel about 10°C lower than the thermometer indicates.

When the wind combines with snow, prepare to be hit by a blizzard, like the one that greeted me in Otaru! Fortunately, the cold is generally dry, so you warm up quickly indoors—especially since Japanese buildings and public transport are often heated to tropical levels.

Gloves, scarves, and hats are a must, as are thermal layers. I recommend waterproof shoes that are also warm. And thank goodness for kairo, the instant hand warmers that you can stick inside your clothes, socks, or shoes. These handy items, available everywhere in Japan, stay warm for hours and are a brilliant invention!

I’ve been there in December but January and February are colder, and it’s during this period that the famous Sapporo Snow Festival and the Ice Festival at Lake Toya take place—two spectacular events you can only experience thanks to these freezing temperatures!
And honestly, is there anything better than soaking in a hot spring to warm yourself up?

Itinerario in Hokkaido - Upopoy Museum

Hokkaido is a spectacular destination, especially for nature lovers. Even in winter, it’s absolutely worth a visit—even for non-skiers!

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