Ninh Binh welcomed us with a scorching 43°C, with the heat index pushing a sweltering 48°C. After a morning where we nearly sank on the ferry from Cat Ba, it felt like the start of a hellish trip. But instead, something unexpected happened—I fell completely in love with this place.
The rice fields, the serene Vietnamese countryside, and breathtaking landscapes viewed from boats gliding gently on the water made the hustle and bustle of Hanoi and the crowds of Halong Bay seem like distant memories. Even the intense heat became more bearable, prompting us to ditch the comfort of an air-conditioned Grab and stroll through the lush green fields, serenaded by the croaking of frogs.
We spent a day and a half in Ninh Binh, which is the perfect amount of time to see the main attractions. However, if you’re a slow traveler, combining exploration with work, or simply looking for a place to unwind, you could easily spend four or five days here.
While many opt for a day trip from Hanoi, I strongly recommend staying at least one night—it was one of the highlights of my Vietnam itinerary.
What to do and see in Ninh Binh, my favorite place in Vietnam
First things first, a quick note: Ninh Binh is both the city and the province in the southern part of the Red River Delta. Most of the must-see attractions and stunning landscapes are in Tam Coc, a charming village where souvenirs are cheaper, and you’ll find plenty of cute and affordable guesthouses. There are also several places to enjoy a relaxing massage or a shampoo—trust me, try it!
Naturally, there are restaurants too—don’t miss Chief Hien Restaurant and its grilled duck!—as well as spots to grab a drink. Tam Coc is also where most buses to other destinations in Vietnam arrive and depart.
For exploring Ninh Binh, I suggest renting a bicycle or a scooter. The area is flat, and distances aren’t too far; almost all accommodations offer free bikes or rentals for a small fee, while scooters can be rented from various spots in the village center.
Boat Tours in Tam Coc and Trang An
Ninh Binh is often called the “Halong Bay on land,” and it’s easy to see why. Limestone mountains, almost entirely covered in lush greenery, rise majestically from vast rice paddies traversed by winding rivers. And the best way to experience this landscape is by boat.
Trang An is a UNESCO World Heritage site, about 8km from Tam Coc, and it draws a constant stream of visitors. The entrance feels almost like that of a theme park, complete with restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops, and the classic winding lines to manage the crowds. But once you’re on the boat, the atmosphere is surprisingly peaceful, and the crowds aren’t overwhelming.
A boat tour costs 250,000 VND per person, and the boats, which hold four or five people, are shared with other visitors unless you’re a group of four or more. There are three routes, all the same price and duration (2.5 to 3 hours), but each offers different scenery and stops. The brochure you receive at the entrance explains the routes, so you can choose the one that appeals to you most:
- Route 1 features the most caves, with nine in total and three stops at temples and pagodas.
- Route 2 offers a mix of caves and temples.
- Route 3, the most recommended, is the one we chose, and it did not disappoint!
If your group is smaller than four, you’ll be paired with others. We waited until we found a young couple who seemed friendly, and we took turns sitting in the front of the boat, ensuring everyone could enjoy the view and take great photos. The highlights of Route 3 include a 1km long underground cave (which reminded me of the stunning Underground River in Palawan), the large Suoi Tien temple complex with its iconic bridge, and the beautiful pagoda at Vu Lam Palace.
Trang An is spectacular—no wonder it was used as a filming location for King Kong: Skull Island and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can imagine the number of visitors, but even during a busy holiday weekend, we found it well-organized and enjoyable.
Personally, though, I loved and appreciated the boat tour in Tam Coc even more. Here, the boatwomen (yes, they’re mostly women!) row with their feet! This tour also costs 250,000 VND per person, but it’s shorter, lasting about an hour and a half. Your boatwoman will likely expect you to buy one of her hand-painted pictures or leave a tip at the end (we tipped 20,000 VND, as advised by our homestay host). You’ll be alone on the boat, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the tranquility and the stunning green hues of the rice fields and limestone mountains.
I had read about vendors who aggressively try to sell flowers, souvenirs, and snacks from their boats, but we didn’t encounter this—perhaps the late afternoon heat had deterred them. If you do run into them, be prepared with a polite but firm “no, thank you,” as I often had to say in Vietnam.
One reason I recommend staying overnight in Ninh Binh is to have enough time for both boat tours—they’re both absolutely worth it. But if you have to choose just one, decide whether you prefer the UNESCO World Heritage site and movie set, or the more local, less famous option. Either way, bring plenty of water and a hat or umbrella to protect yourself from the sun.
Hang Mua Cave
One of the toughest climbs of my life, but also one of the most breathtaking views.
500 uneven stone steps, tackled after a bike ride and in the humid heat of Southeast Asia. But that view—the vast expanse of rice fields, winding rivers, and towering limestone mountains, all under the watchful eye of a bright red flag with a yellow star, waving against a backdrop of varying shades of green—is something I’ll never forget.
I struggled with this short but intense climb, while young Vietnamese women in rented traditional dresses breezed past me, seemingly unbothered by the sweat pouring down my face (and from everywhere else). I realized just how out of shape I was and, combined with my low tolerance for humidity after last year’s heatstroke, had to stop several times to rest, drink water, pop some electrolyte candies, and wipe down with my indispensable towel. Luckily, I was well-prepared and made it to the top.
About two-thirds of the way up, the path splits. To the right, you reach the famous pagoda symbolizing Ninh Binh; to the left, you climb to the “dragon mountain,” where you get a 360° view that takes in the rice fields, the river with Tam Coc’s foot-rowed boats, and the pagoda-topped peak.
Many people climb along the dragon’s ridge, on cliffs with sheer drops, in search of the perfect shot. Honestly, it doesn’t seem like a great idea, especially after the energy-draining climb. Please, use common sense and don’t risk ruining your vacation—or worse, your life!
Take your time to soak in the panorama—there are even a few benches where you can sit and fill your eyes with this beauty. I’ve often read that visiting at sunset adds an extra layer of magic, but keep in mind that you won’t be alone in enjoying that magical sunset. We went in the morning, practically at opening time, and it was already busy, with more people arriving as we finished our visit and took a stroll around the lotus flower lake within the complex.
Entry to the site costs 100,000 VND, and if you arrive by bike or scooter, ignore the parking attendants along the approach road. You can ride right up to the entrance and park directly there for a lower fee.
Bich Dong Pagoda
Heading out of Tam Coc in the opposite direction, through lush fields dotted with charming guesthouses, you’ll reach Bich Dong Pagoda, best known for the stone bridge crossing a pond to the complex entrance. It’s a postcard-perfect scene. The complex, with various structures, caves, and beautiful landscapes, is also worth a visit, but be aware—it may no longer be open all the time as previously mentioned, and there’s now a gate (and possibly an entrance fee) that closes at 4 PM. Unfortunately, we arrived too late to explore beyond the famous bridge.
Bich Dong Pagoda is actually composed of three pagodas: the Lower Pagoda (Ha), the Middle Pagoda (Trung), and the Upper Pagoda (Thuong), connected by a series of steps that should be much more manageable than those at Hang Mua. The Upper Pagoda is high up on the mountain, offering a splendid view.
Ancient Capital Hoa Lu
Regrettably, we decided to skip this stop to give ourselves enough time for the other attractions. Unfortunately, in Ninh Binh, the main challenge is that many places close relatively early, around 4 or 5 PM, so we would have needed an additional half day to fit this UNESCO World Heritage site into our schedule. Having already seen the Citadel of Hanoi, we chose to forgo this visit in favor of other sights in Ninh Binh.
Hoa Lu was the ancient capital of the Dai Viet Kingdom until 1010, when the capital was moved to what is now Hanoi. Today, only the ruins of a few temples remain, surrounded by lush vegetation, and the visit requires at least a couple of hours, as the complex is quite large. Entry should be only 20,000 VND.
Where to Stay in Ninh Binh
The best area to stay in Ninh Binh is undoubtedly in or around Tam Coc and buses generally arrive and depart from here to other destinations. This village is at the heart of the region’s attractions and offers a variety of accommodations, ranging from budget-friendly homestays to more upscale hotels.
Our first choice,Tam Coc Sunshine Homestay, highly recommended by trusted travelers, was unfortunately fully booked, so we settled for Tam Coc Three Princess Homestay, located in a super central but very quiet street in Tam Coc. This small guesthouse has just three rooms, each with a small terrace, private entrance, and bathroom. The rooms are wooden and simple but very spacious. The owner is incredibly kind and, besides giving us tips on how to organize our visits, also allowed us to take a shower in the evening after check-out when we returned to pick up our luggage before the night bus.
Actually, it was the cheapest private bathroom accommodation of our trip: only 400,000 VND for one night with breakfast.
If you want to fully enjoy nature and move away from the center of Tam Coc, consider the charming Trang An Lamia Bungalow, with wooden and bamboo stilt houses and a photogenic small circular pool with a view of the rock formations—a true spectacle! The property is located just beyond the Trang An UNESCO site, but there are free bicycles available for getting around, and with a short Grab ride, you’re connected to the bus departures.
Whether you’re cycling through the rice paddies, taking a leisurely boat ride, or simply relaxing at your accommodation, Ninh Binh offers a peaceful retreat that’s a world away from the hustle and bustle of Vietnam’s cities.
How to Get to Ninh Binh from Hanoi, Halong, and Sapa
Ninh Binh is about 85 km south of Hanoi, roughly a two-hour bus ride away. This proximity often leads travelers to visit as a day trip, but I strongly recommend spending at least one night here to truly appreciate the area.
If you’re coming from Halong Bay, the journey isn’t too long either—about 3 hours from Halong City or 5 hours from Cat Ba Island. You have the option of taking a shared minivan, which is a bit faster but slightly more expensive, or a standard highway bus. In either case, you’ll find plenty of agencies where you can book your trip, or you can conveniently book through 12go, which I always recommend for Southeast Asia.
Ninh Binh is also connected to more distant Vietnamese destinations by the infamous Vietnamese sleeping buses. It’s very convenient to depart in the evening and head to Sapa, arriving the next morning (or vice versa!).
We opted to travel directly to Ninh Binh from Cat Ba, bypassing Hanoi, and then took a night bus from the central square in Tam Coc to Sapa, arriving around 6:30 AM. I highly recommend this option as it optimizes your travel time.
Vietnam Travel: my 10 days itinerary in the Northern Vietnam
Ninh Binh is a destination that captivates with its natural beauty, cultural heritage, and tranquil atmosphere. Whether you’re an adventure seeker, a history buff, or simply looking to escape into nature, this region has something to offer every traveler. So, take your time, soak in the views, and let Ninh Binh leave an indelible mark on your journey through Vietnam.
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