In a Vietnam itinerary, Ha Long Bay is one of those stops often described as unmissable, a must-visit destination, and for many, it’s the main reason that drives them to explore this Southeast Asian country. I personally had high expectations, and it was a non-negotiable stop on my itinerary in northern Vietnam, but I’ll go against the grain here and say that, for me, it didn’t live up to the hype I had imagined.
Of course, my expectations were sky-high, fueled by the excellent social media narrative surrounding Vietnam and the fact that this is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of Vietnam’s most famous locations, and one of the seven natural wonders of the world.
I did find it a very beautiful place, with towering rock formations covered in vegetation emerging from the sea, but having visited the Philippines a few months earlier, I couldn’t help but compare it to the similar landscapes of El Nido, which completely stole my heart.
Unfortunately, Ha Long Bay suffers greatly from overtourism, which has grown relentlessly in recent years. The idyllic image of a relaxing cruise in pristine nature has turned into a slalom between boats, floating trash, and groups of tourists in kayaks trying to take photos while keeping others out of their shots… all this at a price that isn’t exactly budget-friendly!
But don’t lose hope; for the conscious traveler who journeys not just to tick boxes but to explore and experience the world’s beauty, not all is lost. Cat Ba Island offers an excellent alternative for visiting Ha Long Bay. I chose this option, staying in a floating house and taking a day excursion in Ha Long Bay. You’ll find a detailed report and useful information in my article dedicated to Cat Ba.
Ha Long, Lan Ha, and Bai Tu Long: The Three Bays
“Where the dragon descends into the sea” – this is what Ha Long means.
Legend has it that thousands of years ago, while the Vietnamese were fighting off Chinese invaders, the gods sent a family of dragons to assist them. These dragons spat out precious stones that turned into rocks, forming a barrier against the invaders. According to the legend, this is how the over 2,000 islands dotting this part of the Gulf of Tonkin were created, making it a strong symbol of Vietnamese independence.
When we talk about “Ha Long Bay,” we’re mostly referring to the central part of the bay, just in front of Ha Long City. This is where most cruises – and crowds – are concentrated. However, the beauty of this area extends to the two neighboring bays, which are also part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site: Bai Tu Long to the northeast and Lan Ha to the southwest.
Legend has it that the dragon mother descended into Ha Long Bay, while her children went into the two adjacent bays.
Bai Tu Long is the least touristy and developed of the three. Only a few boats are allowed to operate here, under stricter controls to minimize environmental impact. This is the best choice for those who don’t want to miss out on a cruise but want to avoid the crowds. Prices are slightly higher since fewer cruises are authorized to navigate this bay.
Lan Ha, on the other hand, is the most affordable option and the only one you can visit without taking a cruise. You can stay on Cat Ba Island and take a day boat tour, which is undoubtedly less impactful than the “floating hotels” that cruises essentially are. Additionally, this is where you’ll find the last authentic fisherman village still standing in Ha Long Bay, as the others have come under government control in recent years.
Cat Ba Island: The Most Affordable (and Sustainable) Option to Visit Ha Long Bay
As mentioned earlier, I decided to explore Ha Long Bay from Cat Ba Island in Lan Ha Bay. I spent three nights there, one at the Eco Floating Farm Stay Cai Beo – a floating house in the bay (an incredible and highly recommended experience) – and two nights on the island.
If I could go back, I’d shorten my time in this area, especially since I wasn’t particularly interested in the trekking trails on the island. However, if you’re into outdoor activities, staying on Cat Ba will give you plenty of opportunities to explore.
If You’re Set on Taking a Cruise in Ha Long Bay…
As mentioned, cruises have a significant environmental impact. While some companies market themselves as eco-friendly, they are still not the most sustainable way to explore Ha Long Bay. However, if you’re determined to take a cruise, here’s some useful information to help you choose the best option:
How Many Days?
One-day cruises departing from Hanoi are often offered – skip them. It’s absolutely not worth spending over three hours traveling from Hanoi, just to spend a few hours in the most crowded and chaotic area of the bay, and another three hours to return… Consider this option only if, as mentioned earlier, you’re staying on Cat Ba Island and opt for a boat trip in Lan Ha Bay or a combined Lan Ha + Ha Long tour.
The best and most affordable option is generally a two-day, one-night cruise. This essentially means 24 hours on board, allowing you to venture deeper into the bay, away from the crowded areas. I’d recommend choosing a cruise that also includes Bai Tu Long Bay or Lan Ha Bay.
Three-day, two-night cruises are also available, offering more extensive exploration but with a higher environmental and financial cost. Honestly, after reading some reviews, some travelers mentioned that the third day is somewhat repetitive. I’d suggest adding an extra day in Sapa instead of spending three days in Ha Long Bay.
How Much Does a Ha Long Bay Cruise Cost?
The prices of Ha Long Bay cruises vary greatly depending on the type of boat, duration, and route.
For a two-day, one-night cruise, prices range from $80 to $200 per person, nearly double for a three-day, two-night cruise. Prices are lower in the off-season, and booking in advance – whether directly with the companies, through third-party websites, or via your accommodation in Hanoi – can help secure better deals.
Cruise Programs and Things to Watch Out For
Most Ha Long Bay cruises follow a standard program with minor variations in schedules or locations for certain activities. Typically, they include pickup and transfer from Hanoi’s Old Quarter in the early morning, with boarding around lunchtime.
The itinerary usually includes lunch on board, a kayaking stop, sometimes a beach visit, or a visit to a fisherman village. This is followed by a cooking lesson and dinner, with optional night fishing activities.
In the morning, there’s an optional Tai Chi session at sunrise, breakfast, and another kayaking/beach/fisherman village stop depending on what wasn’t covered the day before. The second lunch is usually included, and disembarkation follows, with transfers back to Hanoi or onward to Ninh Binh upon request. For two-night cruises, additional activities are added to the second day.
Key things to watch out for include environmental policies: check if the company has measures to reduce its environmental impact or reinvests part of its profits in preserving the bay. Verify whether beverages are included, as well as any mandatory extras. It’s also crucial to check the company’s cancellation policy. If traveling during the summer, typhoons could force cancellations or postponements, so it’s better to know in advance if refunds are provided.
Based on the experiences of trusted bloggers and travelers, if you decide to take a cruise in Ha Long Bay, I’d recommend opting for a Bai Tu Long cruise on a luxury-level boat (the cheaper ones are older and thus more polluting) and choosing a two-day, one-night option.
One of the best companies is Indochina Junk, which has permits to navigate Bai Tu Long Bay, but you can also find excellent options on platforms like Klook or GetYourGuide.
Best Time to Visit Ha Long Bay
The best months to visit Ha Long Bay generally align with the ideal times for northern Vietnam: spring (March-April) and autumn (late September-November). These months usually offer sunny days and pleasant temperatures.
From May to August, there’s a risk of typhoons, which can lead to cruise cancellations for safety reasons. In such cases, Cat Ba Island once again becomes the best alternative.
Winter is cooler, so water activities might be limited, but on the bright side, there are usually many clear, sunny days.
As mentioned, Ha Long Bay fell slightly below my expectations, but it’s still a hard stop to exclude from a Vietnam itinerary, and spending one night here is ideal.
If you’re short on time or traveling in summer, risking cruise cancellations, I’ll take full responsibility in suggesting skipping Ha Long Bay in favor of the spectacular Ninh Binh – also called the “inland Ha Long”, but in my opinion, much more breathtaking – or adding an extra day in Sapa, another place that stole my heart.
Did you find this article useful? Buy me a coffee 🙂
You might be interested also in:
– 10 Days itinerary in Northern Vietnam
– Survive to Vietnam’s Sleepong Buses
– Alternative to the cruise to overnight in Halong Bay
